Bespoke Tailoring is "A garment cut by an individual , for an individual, by an individual."
In the modern world, designers more than the craftsman, the craft of tailoring is an old fashioned cottage industry which people are more likely get in touch with fast fashion. Sad to say the art of bespoke tailoring is in danger of extinction.
Savile Row is the last outposts where still the aficionados of bespoke tailoring whereas it started developing very well in 1930s in Hong Kong. The division of the bespoke tailoring industry position called cutters and tailors. The cutter designs the cut and then cuts out into pieces. The tailor is the craftsman to really puts the pieces into a suit. The knowledge of the actual craft of tailoring, distinguish the cut from designers to produce it with experienced hand stitching into a fine products is called "The Art of Bespoke Tailoring". The difference between bespoke tailoring and made to measure is that about the cut and craftsmanship. An individual cut for each customer, depending on his measurements, requirements and precisely adjusted for his body shape and character is the bespoke tailoring only. Made to measure means to use a standard cut to adjust as possible as fit to the customer's need. The experienced hand stitching is a feature of bespoke tailoring as opposed to the machine sewing. And this artwork is carried out literally by hand and demands a level of skill that cannot be emulated by any machine, no matter how ingenious. The experienced hand of a seamstress is still required to finish off a breast pocket or hand stitch a border which comes to inserting a sleeve with delicate stitches. The suit are evident in the incomparable softness, lightness, flexibility and comfortable fit. By comparison of the golden years of the past, Bonham Strand is one of few local stores in Hong Kong still follow the golden rules to run with cutters and tailors together in retail & workshop. And 24 hours promising to supply a suit is impossible for bespoke tailoring. A minimum of several days from measuring to the first fitting is the rule, and enough time for hand stitching is important for a fine and delicate garment.
British Suits - Natural Classic Gentleman Temperament
In the traditional British suit, there are classic rules to make the suit precisely to look more gentleman. The shoulder usually slope slightly, the sleeve always undone or made it shorter than usual for turned up when the gentleman can wash his hands. There is a horizontal loop to hold the stem of a flower worn in the buttonhole on the underside of the left lapel especially in Savile Row customers. The waist of the jacket is higher and the coat tails fall softly who used to specialize for office uniforms and riding clothes. "Stomach in , chest out" of the pants are cut to rest high on the hips and use suspenders or make by buckles or elastication to help to hold up to looks confidently and fit best on slim men. The classic British suit has two long side vents and comfortably to let hands put in pockets which regarded as a good manner in England but regarded as a bad manner in German. For classic British Tweed Jacket is always with a vent but very unusual without vents.
White pinstripes on dark blue, Gray pinstripe on Gray, Dark Gray or Black pinstripe, Nail-head pattern, Plain worsted pattern, chalk stripe and very dark prince of Wales Check or Glen check are the undisputed classic fabric choices for British suits which still remains the uniform of most stockbrokers, bankers, lawyers, and politicians.
Italian Suits - Express Individuality of elegance
The Italian always sure of his own individuality and importance and impressed upon him by his family and the culture. They are not only simply wants to be dressed correctly but also dressed elegantly in top class garments. These attitudes are very different from the British. The Italian looks for elegance in his clothing, lifestyle and the suits is therefore the first and foremost be elegantly selected in the lightweight, soft fabric and refined in the fashionable cut and produced with excellent craftsmanship to show off the own kind, naturally elegant gentleman's style in the world. Such points are the borne in mind as we see the craft of Italian Suits undoubtedly the top labels stood in the bespoke tailoring world.